Awesome African Adventure. Day 35 – May 13, 2025

Antisirabe Gem Shops & Local Artisans

Water and power stops and starts here it seems. I was in the shower last night when the power went off- very dark in the bathroom. Suzie was readying for hair washing day this morning when I discovered no water! Off to reception to ask about it. The water returned in a jiffy, as had the power. 

Benj hired 5 cyclo bus (bike rickshaws) for the morning to tour us around Antsirabe. My driver is Aroche (Arvarj) 

Off to the railway station along Independence Avenue. Hounded by the women and men selling stuff. 

The railway was built in 1916 -1923 and operated until 1985. There is so much infrastructure associated with it going to waste. They couldn’t afford to maintain the rail line and accidents/issues brought it to the end. 

The Madagascan Flag – White purity, red sovereignty, green is hope and the people who produce. 

Still the sellers – very annoying and distressing in the same breath. They ran after/beside the cyclobus holding their embroidered purses, t shirts, tote bags, vanilla beans and more. 

Onto the statue depicting the tribes/ethnic groups of Madagascar and what they/their area is known for. 

Fahaleovantena – national Hymn. Benj sang it for us. This is sung on Monday’s and Fridays at school and speaks of the love and pride for the beautiful country of Madagascar. 

So far we have visited 3 of the areas of the 18 tribes – Merina (Tana area and home of Benj and Nico) Benzanozana (Kirindi) and Sakalava (Zebu – cows for meat, fertiliser, transportation, a sign of richness and power, a sacrificial animal) Zebu head represents all this. 

Next stop was the Hotel des Thermes. An old hotel built by the French in 1897 – 1997. A Sofitrans Hotel. It’s been a majestic building in the past and the current French owners have a fair bit of maintenance and renovation to bring it back to its former glory. The hotel sits in large gardens that are well maintained. Colonialism at its best.

The steeple of the Catholic Cathedral towers above the town (nothing new about the Catholics getting the highest hill). 

Nearby is another French building – which houses the natural hot mineral springs for medicinal purposes. The pools are prescribed by physicians in the area for locals. Also available to tourists as well. 

The interminable sellers are following us around – to each stop

The same girls. They run beside us. 

A visit to the Catholic Cathedral- Notre Dame De La Salette- Antsirabe. As always the Cathedrals are beautiful and never ceases to amaze me the money in religion. A couple of the stained glass windows were representative of Mada so I’ve tried to translate the words. 

1. After the fast (maybe lent) the people come to the butcher like dogs
2. Work hard for 6 days and on the 7th, give time  to me. (God)

I liked that these windows focussed on the Zebu and agriculture, in particular rice. 

We then visited the House of rock (purchased a lemur 80 000 ariat). We were shown a range of precious and semi-precious stones that are mined here in Mada. There was sapphire, ruby, amethyst, tourmaline, petrified wood, and one found only in Madagascar rock is Celestite. We were gifted a little piece of any rock wanted from pile. Mine is black with Celestine through it. 

From there we were ferried through the streets to another little artisan house – where we were shown recycling at its best. The small family business has been producing miniature model vehicles of Mada from all sorts of recycled scraps including: aluminium cans, expired IV tube, brake cable, electrical wire, wooden seat, plus other bits and pieces. Tiavin demonstrated the making of the bike wheel (see some of the video, the whole thing was a bit long to post) the only non recycled part was the fishing line for the spokes. Each bike takes 2 hours to make. (40 000 Ariary each for the bike and can car magnet) 

Also associated with this place was an embroidery workshop and silk spinning and weaving too. Raw Africa Eco Tours gifted us each a tote bag because we purchased there. A nice touch and so good to support the local economy. 

Then home to the hotel and to the small Carriefour supermarket within the hotel building. We needed some bottles to wrap our newly purchased goodies in. Then lunch with Benj. 

We had a free afternoon, Phil had some life admin to attend to, Suzie needed to chase some deleted notes. Mary and I went for a walk for a look at the Robert chocolaterie. Looked pretty good. We then wandered around, looked at a couple of other churches, some shops (electric home appliances and tvs etc) the lake and mineral springs, grabbed a nice coffee and walked back again. 

We drank our Pepsi and Coke and tipped the flavoured soda down the drain so we could cut them down to put our souvenirs in for safe travel.

Then to the restaurant for drinks and dinner. I had a delicious stir fried pork filet Mignon with stir fried vegies, followed by dessert of Coffee grande – basically a tasting platter with an espresso coffee.

Then time to pack. Benj changed the departure time from 7am to 7:45 as he has been advised the road is improved a little. We are all pretty happy. 

Yesterday I wrote about the traditional beliefs in The Ancestors that 60% of Malagassy practice. Tonight Benj shared a bit more about the wrapping of the bodies and how it falls on the men to wrap although women are now learning the traditional ways also. 

Benj also shared a bad thing that happened ten years ago when their family tomb was raided and bones of the ancestors stolen. It’s a real mongrel act and has obviously caused much distress to Benj and his family. We all listened in disbelief. It is thought that the thieves use the long bones for something – be it smuggling or the belief there is some medicinal benefits. 

I thought Benj was very generous and vulnerable to trust us and  share this story with us, it was obvious just how much it hurt him and his family. Very brave to have shared with us.